What the hell was I thinking. Clearly a string of at least moderate kitchen successes had gone to my head, and I thought I was untouchable. But deep down in my soul was a fear, an awareness of my many shortcomings, a gaping hole papered over with minor victories. But the dough knows. I’ve never … Continue reading The Dough Knows: Steak and Kidney Pudding
Category: Nose to Tail
The Wonton Assassin
Back in my dim dark past, my pre-viral salad days, I was a hired gun. A heartless mercenary offering my services to the highest bidder, performing often gruesome tasks without remorse; ruthlessly and efficiently making the hit then silently packing my equipment and disappearing back into the night. Over a period of eight years I … Continue reading The Wonton Assassin
Hempton & Henderson #1: Grilled Marinated Calf’s Heart
An irregular series in which I attempt to cook every recipe in Fergus Henderson’s “The Whole Beast,” in the style of that daft movie about Julia Child. I was thinking that what this blog needs is to be more relevant, to be part of the zeitgeist, to resonate with the youth and their pop-culture savvy. … Continue reading Hempton & Henderson #1: Grilled Marinated Calf’s Heart
Escape On The Legs Of A Duck
Late last night, for maybe thirty minutes, the AHAM kitchen table– one end of it neat and tidy, the other end a chaotic mess of books, unopened mail, wine corks, forgotten fruit– was transformed into a cool, marble-topped cafe table tucked into a corner of a cosy Parisian neighbourhood bistro. I agree it sounds unlikely, … Continue reading Escape On The Legs Of A Duck